Chef Jonathan Wu

The Bronx-born chef, Jonathan Wu, cooked at Per Se, a training that shows in the delicacy and technical intricacy of many of his dishes, like whorls of thin beet slices ornamented with gray-green thousand-year-old egg and dehydrated shards of twice-fermented bean curd, or a purée of broad beans set with kuzu flour and shaped into a terrine with a secret inner layer of minced bacon and pickled mustard greens. Fung Tu, which opened in November, is run by Mr. Wu, John Matthew Wells, Jason Wagner and Wilson Tang, who a few years ago revitalized the Chinatown dim-sum institution Nom Wah Tea Parlor. Mr. Wu makes his own version of the Nom Wah egg roll, packing it with pork belly, leeks, pickled Thai bird chiles and — genius! — olives, which keep it moist and give it a briny shiver. Fung Tu is at its best when it traffics in nostalgia. The duck-stuffed dates are Mr. Wu’s attempt to recreate a long-lost street snack from pre-revolutionary Shanghai that his relatives still sigh over; a dessert of silken tofu harks back to a Mott Street shop where tofu was scooped like ice cream and doused with rock sugar syrup. And those chocolate-peanut-butter balls studded with sesame seeds? They’re a salute to Mr. Wu’s father’s favorite candy: Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. "At Fung Tu, we use Sitram fry pans for a multitude of tasks, including sautéing duck breasts and pan-frying masa scallion pancakes." Chef Jonathan Wu. Credits: New York Times; Nodding From East to West More Information: